Tuesday, 5 April 2011

Day 5 -Morning-The wonderful thing about Tiggers!

Another 5:30 wake up call and we're off!   Within 5 minutes of arrival at the National Park, a tigress strolls down the road!  Everyone is amazed!  We don't get a very close view, but it gets us all excited and on the look out.  The guide tries to track where she might go, but after a while we move on. Little did we know what lay ahead....


Sitting out in the open was a tiger, panting in the heat, no one could believe their eyes!  We thought yesterday was a good sighting, but there was more to come!


Panting in the heat


After a while, he gets up and slowly ambles off, we follow...


He walks in front of the Cantaur (Open topped vehicle)


and down to a small pool beside the road....


Had a drink whilst we all watched from above....


and lay down in the water to cool off!


Look at the pads on him!


We watched him for about 20 minutes!  I can't believe we'll ever ger a better sighting than this! Some people we have met haven't had a single sighting after 5 safaris.  We feel very privileged.

Day 4- On which which we meet a tiger and are very excited!

Alarm sounded at 05:20, coffee on the veranda at 5:45 and we set off for the second safari, complete with warm long cardigan.  On arrival at the gate someone spotted a leopard (no pun intended!) high up on a ridge.  It took a while to work out where different people were pointing, there'e nothing worse when everyone else can see something and you can't!  However, it moved, then I saw it before it sauntered off!

I will let the pictures tell the story of the tiger sighting which was incredible!



Pug marks in the dust....we track them.



We came around the corner and there she was!


Not sure I would have fancied being the the opened top jeep! The tiger just about brushed the side of the bonnet....


Spraying her territory





Monday, 4 April 2011

Day 3-Sawai Madhopur Lodge and Tiger Safari 1

Woke up and through the carriage window  watched villages come to life as dawn broke.  Women working in the fields harvesting wheat as it began to get light.....and I thought to myself....I have it so easy, it was a sobering moment.  Life revolves around lighting dung pat  fires, cooking food, harvesting crops, getting water (twice daily) washing and cleaning.  The children help out with the chores from the moment they are able to, no whining, no excuses, if we don't all muck in, we don't eat, end of....

It's not that I don't know this, but sometimes I need to be reminded of just how different life is for other women, to see it before me, walked out in all its daily ritual.

After a day and a night in the same clothes, chewing gum for toothpaste and dreaming about a mug of coffee, we arrived at the lodge travel weary but jovial, to be greeted by a smiling host, offered coffee and shown our rooms.....Oh my word, I actually jumped up and down, much to Nigel's amusement "Julie, I never seen you so excited!" A huge shower with steaming hot water that pummeled into aching shoulders.



A deep bath, 2 four foot wide beds and somewhere to charge up my netbook! 


The grounds are beautiful with hammocks strung between trees, a huge variety of bird life,  watching mongooses ( I think that's correct!) from the cane furniture on the cool veranders (as in temperature, although there are pretty cool too!)




Breakfast consists of fresh papaya and pineapple chunks, plus both Western and Indian choices, cold and hot....Fill up on breakfast then you don't want any lunch, that's the plan!

Apparently our luggage has been sent to "On the House" in error, so will be now arriving tomorrow afrernoon....so off to buy more clothes for Sue! I've bought a shirt, but have been generally okay as I had 2 changes in my hand luggage (smug) Not sure how we will cope with the choice of what to wear when the suitcases do eventually catch up with us!  I can just see them arriving just after we we have left again to go back to "On the House" for our 2 days at asha later this week!

The first Tiger safari is booked  for 2pm.  They go mornings at 6am for 3 1/2 hours and the same from 2pm. A cantor picks up around the different hotels/ guest houses which takes about  1/2 hour, then off we go. As I have said previously, we are booked on  five, so hopefully we should get a tiger sighting at some point.

Later......




Well, I have had every part of my body jiggled and jolted on this cantor which seats about 16 I guess.  We had the bright idea of sitting up high on the back seats.....my entire body left the seat on a number of occasions, I gripped the back of the seat to keep from hurling myself into the lap of any unfortunate passenger!  I think I have lost a few centimetres of intra vertebral space and will measure less than my 5'2" on return to the UK, but we have had a brilliant safari, no tiger sighting, but seen just about everything else in terms of bird life.  My highlight was a kingfisher which was perched on  a branch really close to us and then flew off in all its blue irridescent beauty!



We saw crocodiles in the lake, samber deer, spotted deer, bird song all around us! Amazing experience, didn't feel at all cheated to have not seen a tiger. Banyan trees are incredible with their aerial roots, we saw a spotted owlet (so cute!, Nigel has a brilliant shot as he has a zoom lens to die for!)   Monkeys, being monkeys just  at the entrance and tree pie birds eating out of your hand if you have crumbs...




Came back, quick shower, then dinner was served.  All  you  can eat buffet type, I can cope with that!  Actually discovered that Kingfisher Beer is really refreshing, although the boys had to help me out (not literally in terms of carrying, those of you who know what a lightweight I am, one glass and all that) but the bottle I insisted would be fine was asking too much....tomorrow, I stick with water!

Dick and Nigel played Pool 1:1  That aside, there is a Nerd contest going on, which Sue and I are awarding points.  They are fairly equal at the moment, except in the area of trip preparation where Nigel has stunned me with his file of "interesting" information. Sue shrugs it all off with a resigned smile...although being asked to become a human tripod (as his is in the suitcase....which as you know.......) on more than one occasion, just about takes the biscuit!! May try and get a photo of this for you, I'm sure there will be other times!!

Excellent day which  seems to have gone on forever!

India Day 2 -Clothes, Cricket and the Night train


Today was "find some clothes" and "watch some cricket" day, before making our way to Nizamuddin Station to catch the Dehra Dun Express to Sawai Mandhopur where we will be spending 4 days, hopefully seeing at least one tiger on the 5 excursions planned out to the  Ramthambore .National Park.



There were big screens around Delhi where people could watch the game live, the atmosphere was terrific! Men on mobiles listening in, cheers everytime a ball was bowled. People with Indian flags painted on their faces.  By the end of the day, I had become quite educated about the game, having taken absolutely no interest  all my life!  We watched the game unfold as we ate our first curry of the holiday, the waiters managing to be very attentive despite the obvious distraction!  Any conversation with them put on hold momentarily if a cheer arose from the stadium! Thanks Chris for the quick overview of both teams and players that you gave us last week, it was a good starting point.  (Thanks too for the result which we learned on waking this morning, Sunday) the game still in progress as we waited to board the train last night with the score at 146 :3, (or near enough!) dodging around the jovial spectators watching on the screen erected at the railway station. 

As it was, the train was an hour late, which for me meant people watching without hopefully drawing too much attention to myself.(!)A commuter train arrived  and off jumped a  small boy who must have been about 8-10, I guess, difficult to say as Indian kids are smaller than English ones.  He was obviously quite savvy about all things railway, sat himself down on the platform with a cup of hot water and teabag plus wrapped wafer all of which he had been holding as he leapt off the moving train, proceeded to dip the tea bag and sit  cross-legged in the shadows....It was 11pm, the platform teeming with people and railway porters carrying cases (note, plural) on their heads whilst negotiating flights  of steps and bestrewn bodies.  Rag pickers even younger than the small boy, jumped on to the rails, carrying white hessian-type bags over their shoulders, little boys and girls who should have been tucked up under duvets with their cuddly toys, streetwise children who had known no other life...

This isn't my picture, I found it online, but it gives you an idea of what I mean.


The train arrived, the longest passenger train I have ever seen and somewhere within its carriages was a compartment prebooked for us....After walking up and down, getting on and then getting off again, the stress within me was beginning to build. Then we saw a wonderful sight, a man with a list, the list that was to be slapped on to the outside of the 1st class carriages which would tell us what we needed to know!  Trouble was it was pitch dark by then, so a mobile was used as a torch and much relief ensued (from the girls, at least!) to see our names and the info that we were in Compartment F.  The boys took the top bunks and we arranged our bedding and backpacks.  Having no suitcases to haul around definitely had advantages! And so to bed, but to be honest,not really to sleep, although we all agreed, we must have slept a bit in stages, unlike some of the other passengers who were piled into carriages further down the train, with small children.  As I lay in my bunk, I  thought about  Puja  who is now 6 years old, who was born on a train just like this one, the Puja express (which is how she got her name- which means worship) on Good Friday 2005, She was thrown down the toilet and left on the rails to die.  However the slum  community that lined the side of the railway track where she lay, soon heard her newborn cries.  As this slum, Mayapuri was a slum where asha  www.asha-india.org worked the woman soon set to cleaning her up and caring for her needs.  I met her when she was 4 days old....today she is a lively little girl much treasured by the family who have adopted her.

There was something rather rhythmical about the swaying and clatter of the train through the night. I've never slept overnight in a train, unlike the other three, so it was a little thrill!

Friday, 1 April 2011

Arrival in Delhi, two lessons learned


Been challenged by some of the concepts around living a more minimilist lifestyle, recently. There are so many views on what this means for different people in terms of what possessions are inportant to us, how we spend our time, our money, how we invest in people, what do we mean by work, the list goes on and on. I've read many different blogs and opinions and gradually I'm forming some of my own. At some point I want to write about some of the different aspects I am exploring on this as I am certain it is part of something bigger that I am discovering. I think I will find it helpful to walk some of it out on here and invite your comments.

I am sensing that this time in India, away from my usual routine, will open my eyes more to some of the "something bigger". Within one hour of arrival, I learned two important lessons.



Our cases didn't arrive with us. Somewhere they languish in Paris haven't missed the connecting flight. We will be reunited with them in 48 hours, they are being sent down to the tiger reserve where we are heading tomorrow evening on the overnight train. So hopefully by Sunday, we won't be washing our clothes every day! Interestingly, I packed two spare days of clothes in my hand lugguage...something I have never, ever done....but felt I ought to this time.... So, how much do we really need to survive? It will an interesting two days! Baggage enquiries have given us some emergency toiletories and a white T shirt each. We may have to have a photo shoot!

On our way to the guest house, we passed a tragic scene, two young lads looked as if they had come off a motor bike, It seemed as if they had died at the scene. A small crowd had formed by the side of the road and one lad was being picked up and manhandled into a car....Poverty, what choices? Horrible...no 999, no ambulance, no one to do resus, no one to say don't move him, he could have a fractured spine....A stark reminder...somewhere families are in shock.....Welcome to Delhi......so terribly sad.....Tonight I will pray for comfort for those that have loved them. Sorry to bring a downer on this first blog but this is all part of what I need to grasp...

Long day, been up since 02:30, so will turn in now, the adventure continues tomorrow!

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